I learned alot about the pistol and its inner workings along with being able to say I fixed what the factory couldn't thanks to the P22 Bible! The P22 shoots smooth and accurate and now it shoots with reliability for a total package. If anyone local to me has one and needs this work done let me know and I can help with it if you don't feel comfortable doing it yourself.
Originally Posted by silverbullet I took the pistol out to Williams today and fired about rounds through it with no hiccups so I couldn't be happier with it now, just wish I had more magazines!!!
Walther Mod Having read this post I did my P I took a short cut though. If you take the barrel not off you can remove the barrel and alter the feed ramp. The I took the frame assy and put it in a sock,wrapped a small piece of duct tape around the lower part of the hammer Cock the hammer 1st with a mag in and did the hammer mod. It took all of 15 minutes this way. Granted the trigger bar ears is still a possible issue.
But for those not wanting to tackle stripping the frame assy apart this is a easy way to correct 2 issues. One other thing I did was to polish the chamber part of the barrel were the shell sits upon firing. Just being too dirty. Lots of people don't clean their 22 caliber firearms as much as they clean other weapons for some reason.
Most 22 ammo is pretty dirty to begin with so you end up with a lot of fouling from the burning powder that can slow up the action 2. Cheap ammo. Aside from being even dirtier than other 22 ammo cheap ammo builds up carbon fouling extra fast , you often get inconsistent or consistently weak loads.
This is particularly the case with bulk ammo like Remington Golden Bullets. In some lots, you can shoot a magazine of ammo and actually hear the difference in what the shots sound like pop, bang, POP, pffft, POP, etc.
Spending a few extra bucks on ammo can clear up a lot of problems. Not holding the pistol firmly enough. This is the area where the sear engages the cocked hammer. Work in this area is serious business. Done improperly and the cocked hammer could slip off the sear causing the pistol to discharge. Work here is not difficult but you "must" know what you are doing. If you don't understand it, see a gunsmith. It's that important.
NOTE: Removal of the 0. Advanced work for the expert. Please disregard. Also the statement "flush with the sear" should say ""flush with the bottom of the breech block". Carry on. I lifted this picture of an original style, unmodified hammer from a recent tread without permission. Don't say anything. But, the new style hammer still has a "tip" as Walther didn't get it quite right. It will still catch in the valley. Next we will discuss re-profiling the hammer tip to eliminate this.
While we are re-profiling the hammer's tip, we might as well square it up. Nearly all I've seen drag down one side or the other and if you look close you will see where the hammer tip, even the new one, is actually peening the bottom of the breech block.
See the three lines just in front of the safety bar. A "re-profiled" tip cures all here. We are now spanning the valley and squarely. Frequently check your work and make sure you are removing material from the right area and doing so squarely.
Remember we are looking for a profile similar to the one in the drawing, flattened the top of the hammer parallel with the bottom of the breech block and then slightly round it. Yes you can do this with the hammer in the pistol and an emery stick but you must be the kind of person that is very patient and you must thoroughly flush the pistol and lube when finished.
Gotta take it apart anyway some time or the other to replace that broken hammer spring. New style hammer ready for re-profiling. This is what an unmodified new style hammer measures face to rear of thumb grip. After about 1 min of sanding on the emery paper the hammer will look like this. When you have finished the new hammer profile will look like this and be about as thick as the caliper measurement shows for this modified one.
BTW, when I reassembled the pistol, the slide still cocked this hammer so if you have access to a dial or digital caliper stop right around this thickness and you should be good to go. All that remains now is some buffing with grit emery paper, then grit, then the Dremel. Then you can see your smile in the reflection given off by the hammer's new face. Pictured here is a stock chamber rim. I do this with a carbide tapered Dremel cutter, Very lightly now, then polish.
You can feel the improvement just by slipping the nose of a hollow-point over the feed ramp and into the chamber by hand. This is what the final product looks like all polished up. Be sure you clean the barrel really well after this procedure.
This is annoying. Until I figure out how to improve this situation with a new hand-made extractor this is the best I've come up with and it works.
Not like a Ruger MK or but much better. First stretch your extractor spring. That will help but if you aren't satisfied you've got to peen. What we are trying to achieve is pictured here. I've never been able to affect any improvement with work to the ejector. I leave it alone. My anvil, a 2 lb hammer head and a small hammer. Many light taps required. I beat the heck out of the sides of one today and nothing gave.
Whatever this material is, it is hard to change it's shape. It is brittle also. Don't hit it hard. Picture of the new extractor modified in such a manner and installed in the pistol. This peened one will work much better than the stock one. Be sure to polish the backside of the head where you were hammering so it will ride smoothly against the slot in the barrel chamber. Finally if your new magazine won't comfortably hold 10 rounds you might take a look at lowering the taller spring retaining nub shown on the left as compared to the older models.
Why the change? Beats me. I never had any trouble with the old style. Reassembly: Clean all grease off the pistol and magazines, spray them down with Birchwood Casey Gunscrubber or similar, blow dry or allow to dry then spray with something like Remington RemOil with Teflon. I blow off any excess with compressed air.
I rub some on the bottom of the breech block and hammer face before reassembly. I also apply a little to the slide ramps where the trigger bar ears hit. I've just started doing this, hadn't thought of it before. I apply a small amount of blue Threadlocker to the frame screw ends and the barrel nut and tighten them securely.
Make sure all oil and grease is removed from the male and female threads or the Threadlocker won't stick. I do this after temporarily reassembling my pistol to check to see that the slide will still cock my newly profiled hammer tip.
If it won't I disassemble the pistol and carefully file a very little material off the face of the hammer's cock notch until reliable cocking is achieved. Then I put the screws in with Threadlocker. You are then good to go for at least 27, rounds. I clean appx every to rounds. If I left something out we'll catch it soon. Always release the slide by pulling it back allowing the slide stop to drop then release it.
That way you won't wear out the slide catch notch on the slide. Hope this helps. That might be all your pistol needs. If not, make sure the pistol is unloaded, then with the proper sized screwdriver you remove one of the safety levers, do the following work, reinstall it and repeat on the other side.
Here the lever has been removed. Note the detent ball that drops in the detent holes. Note the center bar on the safety lever that drops into the receiver inside the slide. This item must not be entirely ground off or the levers won't rotate the safety. Picture of the safety lever and associated screw.
Here a small file is resting on one shoulder. This will cause the detent ball under the safety lever to be pressed tighter against the detent holes firming up movement of the levers. Reinstall the safety lever. Still loose, file a little more. Keep your work neat and square. Don't get carried away, remove a little at a time. You can always take more off, you can't put any back on.
Put a little blue Threadlocker on that clean screw once you're good to go and ready for final assembly. Make sure the screws are tight upon reassembly. There are several concerns associated with the manner in which the P hammer and breech interface.
It is imperative that the relatively low powered. Working against the pressure of the slide return spring, friction of the barrel sleeve, the frame rails and grooves, hammer tip dragging on the bottom of the breech block, extract and eject a spent cartridge, cock the hammer and strip a round from the magazine and chamber it for the next shot. The P has a simple torsion spring that keeps forward pressure on the hammer at all times and especially when being cocked and while cocked. The pressure of the hammer is greatest when it is cocked.
The pressure of the cocked hammer against the bottom of the breech block is not relieved simply because the hammer is cocked. In fact it is greatest when the slide is fully rearward, a time when the bearing surfaces between the slide grooves and frame rails is at it's least. As the slide moves rearward and forward, the hammer tip not only lifts it with considerable force but contributes considerable drag.
This should provide more energy for other functions and less wear to the critical slide components. This mod eliminates it except for the safety bar and that is necessary for cocking. This is also easy to do, just don't remove too much material and weaken the metal where the roll pin goes through. Keep your work square. This is advanced work and not for everyone.
The hammer tip drags across appx. The recent test of lubricants indicates that even with the best more than 1 lb of energy is required to pull the breech across the hammer tip here. I had determined by careful measurement that the hammer rebounds appx. This allows it to drag on the bottom of the breech block. There is 0. When removing material here I want to leave a ramp at the very rear of the breech to glide the hammer up onto the safety bar and to keep full thickness at the firing pin block.
Having only the finest milling equipment, unlike top Dog, I proceeded in the shop with files and emery paper. This photo shows the 0.
This picture shows what my milling effort turned out to look like. The ramp isn't as smooth as could be accomplished with more time and better equipment but the end result is that once the safety bar cocks the hammer the hammer tip does not touch the breech block, especially at the critical very rear position. When the slide moves forward the tip rides over the ramp and roll bar.
Friction is almost totally removed except for the brief moment the hammer passes over the safety bar. I did this to the "test gun" a long time ago so I knew it worked. This is the 0. I'm not saying do this but it sure frees up the slide and I think helps eliminate slide wear. Drag with any lubricant is now less than 1 oz as the hammer tip doesn't touch.
Walther P22 Bible November Walther P22 Manual November Walther P22 Usa Manual October Emaco P22 February 0.
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